It is a good idea to install the bicycle rear derailluer first before the front derl. which will be then used to setup the latter. The same procedure is done if you want to tune up your rear derailluer.

Assuming that the chain is properly installed already.
(Also See Related Topic: Chain Installations & Shifter Cable Installations)

Step1.
After securing the rear derailluer on the hanger, shift the chain to the smallest cog. Look at the rear derailluer from the rear and turn the high-limit screw counterclockwise to move the chain away from the adjacent cog and clockwise to bring it closer, this avoid the chain from dropping out. Set the limit screw until the chain is not rubbing on the adjacent cog and the rear derailluer pulleys is aligned with the smallest cog where the chain is sitting. (see photo)

Step2.
While turning the pedal by hand push the rear derailluer inward on its side and see how far it can go. Turn the low-limit screw clockwise if the chain is over shifting and couterclockwise if the chain does not move up on the biggest cog. (see photo)

Step3.
Install the right shifter cable, turn the barrel adjusters all the way in (one located where the cable enters the rear derailleur and maybe another one on the downtube cable stop.), then attach the cable to the derailleur, pulling it taut to remove all slack (it is better to undo and reattach the cable to removed the slack and stretch the cable) While pedaling the bike, shift up one cog. If the chain moves to the next cog but hesitates or clatters, turn the barrel adjuster out (counterclockwise) one quarter turn. Shift back down, then shift up again and try another quarter-turn. Repeat until the shifting is smooth. Shift to all the cogs, If the chain misshifts when you go to larger cogs, turn the adjuster outward (counterclockwise). If it misshifts going to smaller cogs, turn the adjuster in (clockwise)

Step4.
Shift to the largest cog and looking from the rear again, check if the pulley is aligned with the cog. turn the low-limit screw counterclockwise until far enough to line up correctly or turn it back clockwise if overshifting when push inward by hand.

Tip: Clean rear derailleur every month or 20 hours of riding. Lube your chain lightly and wipe any excess. An over lubed chain will only invite dirt which than becomes like grinding compound on your drivetrain.

Enjoy
Rodge

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Over the years I have noticed that when adjusting their bicycle derailluers quite often people get confused about the high and low gears and how the relation changes depending if you are adjusting the front or rear derailluer.

L stands for low gear, the one that is lighter to pedal which you use for climbing and H stands for high gear, the one that is heavier to pedal which you use to gain more speed. Another way to look at it is that L stands for Lighter, Low speed gears and H for Heavier, High speed gears.

In the case of the front shifter the low (lighter) gear is the small chainring and the large chainring is the high (heavier) gear. On the other hand in the case of the rear shifter the low (lighter) gears are the larger cogs while the smaller cogs are the high (heavier) gears.

Related Topic: Limit Screws.

The low-limit screw on the front derailluers is usually the one farther from the frame, but the limit screw position varies on a lot of bikes and some have an H or an L next to the screws.

The low limit screw on the rear derailluers is usually the lower one, but it also varies on a lot of bikes and most have an H and L next to the screws.

Hope this helps.
Rodge

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The same procedure is done if you want to tune up your front derailluer.

Step 1.

Clamp and secure loosely the front derailluer on seattube just above and in line with the large chainring. Looking from the side pull the cage outward and see the bottom edge of the cage pass the tip of the large chainring teeth.

Adjust the gap between the cage and the large chainring to 1 to 3 millimeter (see photo below). Set the gap higher in case the back plate of the cage rubs the middle chainring on a triple chainring setup.


TIP: The lowest setup that clears the cage with the teeth will give you the best shifting performance.

Step 2.

Align the angle of the front derailluer over the chainring. Look at the derailluer cage from the top and position so that the outer plate of the cage is parallel with the large chainring (see photo below) Tighten and secure the clamp while making sure the cage does not move at all.

Assuming that the rear derailluer, chain and rear shifters cable are all properly installed already.
(Coming soon Related Topic: Rear Derailluer Installation, Chain Installations & Shifter Cable Installations)


Step 3.

Shift the rear derailluer to the largest cog and with the chain on the small chainring look on the top of the front derailluer and turn the low-limit screw (mark “L”) counterclockwise to move the cage away from the chain if it is rubbing from the inside or turn the limit screw clockwise if it is too far from the chain, which may cause it to over shift down and drop inside.

1mm. gap between the chain and inner wall if the cage is ideal. May need a wider gap if the chain does not shift down from the big to the small chainring.

Step 4.

Before adjusting the high-limit screw (mark “H”) install the front shifter cable. Shift the left lever all the way down. While pulling the cable use a 5 mm allen to tighten the bolt that pinches the cable.

Remove the slacks by pulling and stretching the exposed cable between the shifter and the derailluer. Loosen the bolt that pinch the cable and repeat the installation after slacks has been removed.

Step 5.

Shift the rear derailluer to the smallest cog and shift the front to the large chainring. If the chainring doesn’t want to shift up turn high-limit screw counterclockwise, Look for a smooth up shifting while hand pedaling the crank.

By looking on top of the front derailluer again adjust the limit screw until the chain does not rub in the inner wall of the cage. 2 mm. gap is ideal on top. Turn the high-limit screw too far out and you risk throwing the chain off the outside of the ring.

CHECK to make sure no rubbing occurs in the chainrings while shifting through the complete gear range in the rear and in front. If there’s rubbing, it’s not adjusted correctly.

By turning the barrel adjuster you can fine tune the shifting response. Counterclockwise you increases tension on the cable. Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise, or inward, decreases cable tension.

Rodge

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It’s the perfect sunny but cool Sunday morning. You and your cycling buddies are kidding each other about the hundreds of crazy stunts witnessed or performed on the road over the years… and in a few minutes the group hits the road.

Just when you are starting to warm up shhhh… it happens. Someone gets a flat.

Don’t sweat it! Here is the sequence to get bicycle tire in no time. Follow these simple steps, you’ll look like a pro but, most importantly, everybody will be back in saddle in just a couple of minutes.

How to fix a flat tire… like a pro.

Parts and tools:

Air pump, regular inner tube patch with vulcanizing fluid or preglued tube patch, set of tire levers, sandpaper, extra tube. a cresent or 15mm open wrench for axle with out quick release skewer.

Step 1.

Open the brake release lever. Shift the front derailluer to the small chainring and the gear to the smallest cog. This will make it easier to pull and mount the wheel to the bike. Open the quick release skewer to remove the wheel on the bike.

Step 2.

Using a set of tire levers fray one side of the tire from the wheel and pull the tube all the way out.

Step 3.
Check the tire externally for what caused the flat and with extra care (It’s easy to hurt yourself here.), feel the inner part of the tire with your finger for sharp object which may still be in the tire and may cause another flat if not thoroughly removed.

Step 4.(Skip Step 4 if using a new tube.)

Pump some air into the punctured tube to find the hole. Roughen punctured area with sandpaper and wipe clean. Apply vulcanizing fluid for regular patch. Wait a few minutes for fluid to dry up. Apply patch on puncture area firmly. You can also use preglued patch.

Step 5.

Inflate the tube a little bit, this will prevent the tire to sit on the tube while installing it to the wheel. Insert valve stem to wheel valve hole, mount tire and tube to the wheel from the valve going around. If it starts to get tight loose some air and pinch the tire around this will ease the process. Once the tire is completely mounted, push the valve stem in and pull it back to be sure the tire is not sitting on it, then inflate tire to recommended pressure. Double check and make sure the tire is properly hooked around the rim.

Step 6.

Pull derailluer pulley backward, hook chain to the smallest cog, slide axle into dropout, align wheel on the frame then close quick release skewer. Used the nut not the lever to adjust skewer. Close skewer with the palm of your hand, you will feel good resistance but make sure you can release the skewer with your hand. Lift the bike then hit the top of the wheel with a hard blow to test if it is loose. The tire should not come off or move.

Hope everything is clearly explained. I have been doing this stuff professionally for a long time, it is possible that I take for granted some things that are not so obvious for you.

So if you would like additional info on any specific step, just go to the post page and use the comment box to ask… anything goes, I’ll be happy to help you get comfortable with this procedure.

Rodge

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